What spring means to your favourite local fishmonger, a recipe as an ode to a friend, and Pickerel is on the menu.
Ok. It’s here. Spring.
When the cherry blossoms are a week out from hitting their peak in Toronto, we can breathe a sigh of relief knowing that the winter (that wasn’t really a winter) of 2024 is behind us. This doesn’t mean there isn’t always the possibility of the dreaded May snow flurry, however the worst is definitely over. I’m also back on the water rowing, which is as good an indicator as any. 😉
Fish is seasonal.
During the winter, we have no fresh Canadian wild halibut, no wild salmon, no wild ling cod, no wild sablefish (though the previously frozen product is still pretty terrific).
We know spring is SO CLOSE when the west coast halibut fishery (which also means sablefish, ling cod) begins operating at the end of March - running right up until November. The first shipment arrives and we are all GIDDY with excitement, as this fish heralds the glory of all that is to come in the coming weeks and months. It is pearly white, pristine, with fantastic flavour and fat content. We have it in the shops consistently now and the quality has been UNREAL so far.
The salmon season starts when the fish begin to spawn, usually beginning in mid May in Alaska with the Copper River run. We are almost there people!!! Fitting that the first run is the most expensive, as it is one of the most remote in the U.S. *Sigh*
It is always worth the splurge, however, as the quality, flavour, , texture, fat content and colour are out of this world.
Oysters, mussels and clams can be tough to get in winter months too, with raging easterly storms halting not only harvesting and processing, but actually shutting down any and all transportation to mainland Canada. We are now back on the PEI mussel train and oyster supply is finally getting back on track.
Winter lakefish is challenging to source as our fishers on Lake Erie have a small quota, not to mention that winter storms are sudden, fierce, and dangerous. There are a lot of days spent off the water until April, mending nets, repairing boats and resting before the spring fishery opens. Good news, it’s now OPEN!
We have a consistent supply of pickerel, white perch, sometimes yellow perch and even whitefish. Gill netted, landing in Wheatley, Ontario by a wonderful team of fishers on Lake Erie. All in time for the first wild leeks/ramps of the season (available in all our shops* this Saturday), so that I can make one of my favourite springtime fish dishes, Pan Fried Pickerel, Bacon + Wild Leeks, recipe below.
It’s a meal that reminds me of our buddy Dan DeMatteis. Dan helped us to open our first shop. Dan was a fantastic chef, sweetheart of a guy, a gentle giant and all-around outstanding human.
Preparation for Passover and Orthodox Easter:
As the holidays of Passover and Orthodox Easter approach, families around the world are busy preparing traditional dishes to mark the occasion. For Passover, many will be stocking up on kosher fish options to observe the dietary restrictions of the holiday. Gefilte fish is a staple, using local lakefish (or BC Rockfish) and I’ve been mulling the idea of a fish matzo ball soup… All of the basics of a chicken soup, instead using fish stock, white wine, and making little fish ‘meatballs’ alongside the matzo balls. Stay tuned.
Meanwhile, Orthodox Easter brings a feast of seafood dishes, symbolising renewal and rebirth. We’ve got it all (except for carp - you know who you are). 😉
Just give the shop a call or send us an email customers@hookedinc.ca
Recipe for the Opening of Pickerel Season
A memory of cooking in restaurants and our good friend, Dan.
Pickerel with Wild Leeks and Double Smoked Bacon
Serves 6
Ingredients
Fish
6 x 5 ounce portions Pickerel
Dredge
3 tbsp Red Fife flour (substitute good quality All Purpose)
1 tsp sea salt
½ tsp lemon zest
¼ tsp fresh ground black pepper
The Rest
6 oz thick cut bacon, cut into lardons
18 pc wild leeks, washed and trimmed
¼ cup white wine
¼ cup fish stock
3 tbsp butter, unsalted (divided)
1 tbsp vegetable oil
lemon juice or white wine
sea salt & pepper
Method
In a medium bowl, stir together flour, salt, zest & pepper.
Heat a heavy pan (cast iron) over medium heat until hot. Add the bacon and cook until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon, keeping all fat in the pan.
Dredge the trout filets in the flour mixture, shaking off any excess.
Add 1 tbsp of butter and the vegetable oil to the already hot pan and carefully place the trout filets skin side down. Using a spatula, press down the filets for a minute if they curl up.
Let cook, without touching, until the flesh becomes opaque and the skin releases from the pan (about 4-5 minutes).
Using a fish slice/spatula, carefully lift the filet from the pan and turn it over onto the flesh side. Turn the pan off and let finish cooking for approximately two minutes. Reserve and keep warm, skin side up.
Heat the pan over medium high heat. Add the wine, wild leek whites and fish stock to deglaze the pan, scraping up all the bits from the bottom. Let the liquid reduce by two thirds.
Whisk in the butter. Add the bacon and leek greens to the pan sauce to warm them through. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add a squeeze of lemon or a dash of white wine to adjust acidity.
Place a small mound of leeks in the middle of the plate. Spoon a generous amount of the sauce and garnish around. Place the fish skin side up on top and serve immediately.
Recipe Notes:
If in doubt as to the fish doneness, here's a foolproof way to check: Insert the tip of a knife into the thickest part of the filet. Hold for 3 seconds and then touch the tip to your wrist or lip. If it feels just hot, the fish is done.
Red Fife is a heritage grain, one of Canada’s oldest wheats. Red Fife Wheat was brought to Canada by the Scottish and has a wonderful tale. It’s a flavourful and nutty tasting flour, so if you can find it - we suggest using some for this recipe.
Spring Cooking Classes are also OPEN!
If you’ve never been to a class - you should come check it out. We have a great time, stuff ourselves silly, and everyone leaves confident in 4 new recipes using 4 different fish (or shellfish). It’s a great way to spark your dinner imagination and helps you figure out how to add different fish into your meal rotation.
The Big DEAL -
Thanks for reading along. If you’re going to get your pickerel on - this is the weekend to do it!
Friday April 19 through Sunday April 21, while our stocks* last, Fresh Wild Ontario Pickerel will be $5 off per pound, in stores, for subscribers!
How to get this sweet deal?
Go to a store, say hello, let the staff know you’re a subscriber then give us your name/email to get your discount. It’s really that easy.
… And let us know you’re a subscriber each time you come in to shop, even if you’ve missed the issue. We can point you at a specials you might not know about.
Be Social 🐠
Did you try the Pickerel with Bacon? Tag us in your Instagram stories @Hookedinc - We love seeing what you’re making for dinner!
Have a question on a burning topic? Leave us question in the comments to get your query featured in an upcoming Issue.
*Our stores: Hooked in Leslieville, Hooked in Kensington Market, South Kingsway Hooked. Does not include our cousin store, Hooked on the Danforth.
Heading north to TO from winter in Florida. Looking forward to your fish!